Vedado

Vedado

In the early history of Havana, keeping a lookout for unfriendly ships was a key part of defending the city. In those days there were no air forces and armies were no threat to the island nation. So ships and defenses against them were threats until proven otherwise.

You couldn't enter the Bay of Havana with bad intentions except at your own peril. At the mouth of the Bay across the water from the city itself is El Morro Castle, a huge stone structure with thick walls, canon, and a commanding view of anything on the water.

Across the water on the city side is a smaller fort, the San Salvador Castle. Both these forts were finished at the beginning of the seventeenth century. Any invaders by sea would face withering canon fire from opposite directions if these forts wanted to deny them entrance to the bay.

Today, El Morro Castle and its mate, San Salvador still stand watching the entrance to the city. El Morro has a distinctive appearance familiar to many. If an illustrator wants to evoke Cuba, or more specifically, Havana, that fort's picture is often selected.

Another tactic of the city's defenders was to use local high ground for lookouts. Being elevated afforded longer views, which provided more warning of the approach of the enemy. Old Havana with its waterfront is low lying. Moving westward you're in Central Havana with a little more elevation. Westward still brings you to Vedado, a section of the city purposely kept undeveloped for decades. "Vedado" means "prohibited" and building anything there was what was prohibited. The high land in the southern part of Vedado made a great lookout for approaching ships, so the city prevented blocking this view with new construction.

As time passed, reliance on men with telescopes waned, and pressure to build so near the growing city combined to end the prohibition. IT was a golden age, and construction of some of Havana's most elaborate structures began, and a new "embassy row" appeared. Today a walking tour through Vedado is an architect's dream. While many Vedado buildings are not in good condition, Vedado buildings in general are in better shape than other, older parts of the city. The few restored buildings are masterpieces.

My hotel is in Vedado, and embassies and ministries are its neighbors. The very large old homes there are taken over by courts, museums, schools, etc. The truly chic place to live these days is Miramar, further to the west, a suburb reminiscent of some American upscale neighborhoods.

It doesn't take much to entertain me in Havana. Stepping out and walking around the area near the hotel will do it. I don't think of Vedado as a tourist area, at least not the part near my hotel. So, mercifully, there are fewer stray animals on the streets. They prefer more restaurants, parks, etc. as discarded food is a magnet to the "satos" or strays.

Perhaps when I am in Havana, I'm also a "stray." I don't seek food, but to soak up the local ambiance. I could say it's almost European in mood. Anyway, strolling through this special part of town has occupied many happy idle hours over the last several years.

Les Inglis.